Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Keeping The Momentum

Doug and I were on a roll of First Ascents and we couldn't believe the successes we were having. Weather and timing were all aligning for us simultaneously. When your on heater there is only one thing to do and that is to ride it out until you loose.

Doug Shepherd and I decided to head into the Giants Belly in the Beartooths for some new lines of interest. This is also the home wall for the the well known Ice Dragons which is a early season classic. Since we knew the hike in was epic we decided to make the best of our time and stay a night out to capture two days of climbing. The line on the left we named Ice fairies which is a 3 pitch WI5 line and the line on the left we climbed 4 pitches of until the ice ran out and someone turned on the snow.

Doug Heading up to the base of Ice Fairies

Gettin busy on the first pitch

Aaron Mulkey taking on the thriller pillar on the 2 second pitch.

a>Doug following the second pitch of great ice

One climb down and a cold nights bivy to come

Day two brought on incredibly good mixed climbing in the heart of the giants belly. This was a great pitch!

Doug coming up the 2nd pitch

Doug getting it on for another great pitch of climbing

Not sure what Dougs plan of attack was on this super overhanging block pith but he got it her dun and it was yet another great pitch of climbing.

Doug and I were a bit disappointed that we didnt finish the second route but the climbing was so great we felt we had been rewarded handsomely and the streak had to end at some point. A long hike out as the snow decided to explode from the sky we were glad we were on our way out and smiling ear to ear.

Here is a video of the climbs

Monday, January 23, 2012

Desperate For Loving

Well im still keeping the couch warm these days but some of the Wolf Pack came to town to make some kills and I was able to get out and shoot some photos of the action. Desperate for Loving is the name of the climb so dont worry if you thought this TR was about my love life you are mistaken. My life is more like Desperate To Climb these days but my day is coming soon and the training is keeping me focused. I will have some more big post coming soon but wanted to keep the posts coming.

Kelly Dedel and Stephen Berwanger heading into one of the closes approaches in the valley "Desperate For Loving"

A gorgeous day in the valley!

Desperate For Loving is a great route that always seems to take on its leaders with a great mental challenge. Its a bit mixed with some great movement all the way up. I highly recommend this route if your in town and its in.

Stringer and Slow Turning hiding out in the morning shade

Stephen Berwanger "Stevo" Heading up the first pitch

Stevo glad to be out of the cave... I think ha

The Route

Stevo glad to be back in the South Fork no doubt

Stevo playing hookey in the CAVE

Kelly enjoying the second pitch. I love this picture of the desert like landscape climbing

My lovely and talented lady Kelly Dedel picking her way up her first real route. For only climbing about 10 pitches of ice ever she did an incredible job.

Those Greenies just cant get enough of Wyoming ICE!