Saturday, February 20, 2010
Hillary Eisen told me she had found some big chunk of ice and wanted to go climb it, needless to say I was a bit skeptical. Hillary told Kevin Craig and myself it was not that far and only a half hour to the ice.....
An hour and a half later we reached the first pitch........
Obviously Hillary had been climbing with me long enough to know that if you want someone go with you on a mission you must always take an hour off the approach and give the perception that the approach is easy.
For some reason I wasnt thinking and realized I was going to unknowingly make this climb even more interesting by only bringing 6 ice screws for nearly a 200 foot climb and I needed at least 2 for an anchor at the top!
The Assassin ended up being a very enjoyable climb and another possible FA!
Friday, February 5, 2010
The new year is now in full effect and another year of primo adventures is upon me. for those of you who give me shit for my sometimes sappy blog posts and emotional touchy feely stories I have provided you your own section to read forward on this post. If you look for the Part 2 section of this post you will read nothing but the facts.
Life is not the number of breathes you take, it is the moments in which you breathe that make life fulfilling. As this year comes to an end I feel that my heart and mind have been resurrected from the depths of heartache and loss. Somedays finding the balance leaves me exhausted. My mind is free and clear and my body is healthy and the love of my children remains a constant. If your like me there are times in your life when you feel like you are fighting to stay upright. Life is ever changing and although we feel like we need to have both hands on the steering wheel sometimes its just best to hit cruise and find a map.
Afton hucking on her 4th day on skis!
For the past couple years I have welcomed the new year with hopes of a better year and never wanted to look back. As the clock fell this year I couldn’t help but look back at a year full of accomplishments, triumps and incredible memories. I realized 2009 was the beginning of a new path for me. A path paved with some incredible friends and energy that has brightened my life.
So many lines and I cant remember all the names... The Lower right hand climb is the newest addition "Power Of Athena WI5"
The passing of good friends this last year reminds me how precious life is but also that we should live it to its fullest. We should all live our lives as if it were our last adventure and sharing those adventures with good friends and family is the real prize.
"The mountains remain a place where I can be successful or fail and there are no judgments only a passion to return to there presence"
In the last year my adventures have changed in their rewards. Its no longer about climbing hard or being the best but truly about the great stories and laughs I share along the way with incredibly talented partners. There are so many people in the past year, months and days that have changed my life. Doug Shepherd, John Frieh, Steve Berwanger (AKA Stevo) and Joel Anderson have become driving forces of energy and laughs in my life. No matter whether its your climbing partner or relationship partner they should always inspire you.
" Inspiring passion in family and friends has more enduring value than just staying alive for them"
Change is a great thing in life and sometimes it hits you in the head like falling ice. Its even greater when that change comes from someone unsuspecting in your life. Within change usually lies opportunity for growth, which is why im very excited about my life and welcoming the new path that lies ahead of me.
Stevo gettin after it !
So to end my emotional touchy feely rant I will leave you with these wise words…..Life can be horrible and at times feel like your sitting next to the devil himself. I would dream about the year ahead of me hoping things would be better. I realized hope is not enough and that we are the pilots of our own lives. Quit hoping and wishing life will get better or that you will climb harder. Do something about it, train harder, work harder...simply make things happen and stop sitting on the couch hoping for change. Make it your year to lead and not belay and if you meet a gorgeous young woman along the way…well make that happen as well and as only my great friends would say….Dont Fuck It Up!
Just outside Garden Of The Gods lies "Forbidden Fruit WI5"
As many of you know I have a few Ice Secrets and this was one of those days we ventured into “Garden Of The Gods”. The gods were thinking of ice climbers when they built this cathedral.
I proclaimed tales of an easy 2 hour hike ahead of us which quickly became a 3 hour hike with a 45 minute post holing workout. Our group started with 6 and ended with 5……Alison realized rule #1 When climbing with Mulkey double the time and ruggedness of the approach and never believe him when he says were almost there.
The day was full of successful climbing. Hillary and I snagged two First Ascents for the day while Stevo andDoug played runway models for the incredibly talented Jay Beyer ©
We established the 60m WI4 route “Cosmic Aphrodite” which towers over the small valley.
Hillary finishing up "Cosmic Aphrodite" to a great view!
We then moved onto establishing one of my favorite lines of the year “Power Of Athena” connecting 3 hanging pillars thru a fantastic roof crux WI5.
Mulkey establishing Power Of Athena WI5 Copyright Jay Beyer
Mulkey about to take on the hanger. Copyright Jay Beyer
A fantastic day establishing last remaining pure ice lines in the Garden Of The Gods Area.
Doug Shepherd enjoying the fruits of the garden!
10 hours later we were just downhill from the car and Stevo and I decided to wait a few minutes in the dark while Doug took care of the collateral damage above. We eventually rose to the top of our bunker to inspect the damage and to our surprise Doug was still alive. luckily Doug is the friend with the incredibly understanding wife that most married guys WISH they had. Alison is awesome and should do seminars for wives on how to deal with your obsessive climbing husband and his friends. If your special someone doesn’t know Alison send me your email I will get you in contact with her !
Coming Soon.......Add another to your list of Cody's new routes!
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Take a journey into Wyoming’s undiscovered landscape with one of the nomads of our time. Discover a photographic adventure into the landscape that lies beyond your eyes. Pushing the limits of exploration in search of untouched watery treasurers deep within Wyoming’s toughest mountain terrain.
This slideshow is being hosted in part with the Cody Waterfall Ice Festival.
Where: The Cody Cattle Company Event Center
When: 8:00 P.M. Friday February 12th
Cost: $15 and all you can drink beer or $10 Admission (no beer)